If you wish to complete payment early and have your order shipped, you may contact us at any time during the 60 day period. You will receive a reminder via email that a payment is due. If you need to change this for any reason, please contact us.įor payments made other than credit card, payment must be received within seven (7) days of the due date or the order is subject to cancellation. You will be reminded via email that a payment will be charged. If your initial payment is made by credit card, we will automatically process the 2nd and 3rd payments at the appropriate time using the same credit card information. If you select the layaway option, your payments would be: The first payment is made when the order is placed.Įxample: Your order total is $300 plus $12.75 shipping and handling. This fee is added to the first payment along with the shipping and any tax. There is a $15 non-refundable fee for layaway orders. The first payment is due with the order, the second payment is due 30 days later, and the final payment is due 60 days after the order. The total amount of the order excluding shipping, tax, or fees is divided into three (3) equal payments. Products that are eligible for layaway will show "Layaway Available: Yes" on the product page. If you're getting good results with plate quenching, however, there's no reason to change now.We offer a layaway plan on select products so you may pay for your order over a period of 60 days. There are also several heat treating myths that can screw it up also, like poking a hole in the foil, or putting paper (or kerosene, etc.) in the foil. Water quenching in the foil can cause problems if you're inexperienced in any of several different areas of grinding and/or heat treating, which is probably why we don't recommend it in our literature. Even guys that use a lot of it usually etch deep and get a light grey on the dark layers at best. You rarely see anyone with a good dark/bright contrast. until you get what you want.ĭamasteel is way more difficult to etch. The best way to get the best of both is to get a 400 grit belt finish, then etch in Ferric Chloride, then hand rub with something like 600 grit sandpaper to brighten up the 302 (bright layers), then go back in, etc. The coarser the finish, the darker the etch, the finer the finish, the shinier the bright layers will be. Oh, and for finishing, 400 grit is fine like it says on the website. If you have experience with plate quenching CPM steels, then heat treating the stainless damascus should be no problem, just heat treat like normal, and use the right temperatures. Larrin, Devin mentioned that but I'm still learning how to grind properly and I have gotten warping when I water quenched previous blades. I do work mostly in CPM steels with plate quench and forced air (usual from a can), that's why I don't know much about the oil quenching or carbon steels. I am very nervous about the cost of the steel verses my inexperience. I'll just have to give it a try and hope, but its all part of the learning curve. A bit afraid to try with people going back and forth
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